Archive for the ‘bike’ Category
It’s a long way away, but we finally got up there to do this loop. Starting with about 5.5 miles climbing on the road, you then get another 5 miles or so of singletrack climb. This singletrack is minimally technical; just a good steady climb.
Once at the top, there are some beautiful views back into Rocky Mountain National Park from the top. A spur of trail (that we didn’t take) gets you to the true summit of Crosier.
Then it’s 4.5 miles of descent, some of it pretty sketchy and loose, but still pretty fun.
I’d do it again:
In February, after my 3rd knee surgery since 2005, I had no plans or expectations for my riding this summer. And when all my friends made the commitment to a Whistler, BC trip in April, I just figured I was out. But as the summer got going, I was feeling pretty good, and riding pretty clean, and got the big encouragement from Steph, so I was in after all.
Scheduling difficulties meant that I would only get 3 days there instead of the 5 my friends would, but nevertheless, I was in.
We flew into Seattle, and rented a couple of cars there. Flights to Vancouver were 2 or more times the price. It means twice the driving, and add a border crossing, but we figured it was worth it to save a couple hundred each for 7 people.
The Whistler Bike Park is incredibly well managed, and loaded with great riding. There are ride-arounds for most of the big and committing features. I spent 2 days there, and 1 day riding Vancouver’s North Shore.
It was incredible riding. There’s a reason half the photos in bike magazines are from BC. I thought maybe this was a once in a lifetime trip, but now I sure hope it isn’t.
The bike park was amazing fun, but next time I want more North Shore. The incredible amount of work done there to build trails and mind-blowing stunts was astounding.
Friends of Tom from SoCal were there at the same time we were, and very very kindly showed us around the bike park, and especially the North Shore. They were very patient with our (meaning my) slow pace.
Park bikes are very heavy and don’t really pedal at all. They’re kind of inappropriate for my riding style on North Shore rides.
So for me, park bike for park days, trail or all-mountain bike for the other stuff.
We had a condo, but the days were long and tiring, so we ate out all the time. Restaurants in Whistler are breathtakingly expensive. We could have hired a chef to cook for us in the condo and still come out ahead.
Allow extra time for the border crossing. Check the wait times.
Take lots of photos:
Day 1; Whistler Bike Park:
Day 2; More Whistler Bike Park
Day 3; Vancouver, North Shore:
I have nothing really to say.
Vimeo works better than Google with the AVIs from my new camera.
The log bridges on Little Raven can be tricky:
This video notwithstanding, Casey handled the LR/SSV ride with few problems:
The corkscrew at Keystone looks cool, and is scary at first, but is really more of a gimmick.
This might work for other Rock Shox forks too…
My new Pike’s steerer tube has a cap in the bottom with a threaded hole the same size as a standard headset bolt (M6). Instead of pounding a star nut into the steerer, it’s exteremely easy use this cap as the bottom of a headset locker like the Azonic Headlock or USE Safe-T.
Required parts (in addition to headset, stem, spacers, etc.):
M6 threaded rod (shortest I could buy was 3 feet)
M6 coupler nut
Total cost about $5.
Insert the rod to measure the correct length. I threaded the rod through the bottom of the steerer tube until half an inch or so was protruding out the top of the tube. This took some time to thread the 10″ of rod through; I could have done an initial cut to an estimation of length to save myself some time, I suppose.
Add coupler nut, headset cap and original stem bolt. Thread the nut on the rod first, headset cap on original stem bolt, and then stem bolt into the coupler nut as well.
Tighten down the headset cap so there is no play or extra space in the steerer stack. Mark the point where the rod emerges from the bottom of the steerer tube. Take it all apart again, and cut the rod at the mark with a hacksaw.
Put it all together with the headset cap back on original bolt, coupler to original bolt, then threaded rod into coupler. You may want to use some removable threadlocker on the coupler to make it behave more like a single bolt when it’s in the steerer. Tighten the original stem bolt tightly into the coupler; it’ll butt up against the threaded rod.
Drop the whole thing into the steerer tube, thread it into the bottom cap, then tighten the bolt to the torque specs of your headset.